The upper crust of Middle Eastern society has a well-documented appetite for luxury purchases. Travel out to the retail Mecca of Dubai and you’ll find it packed with malls of gargantuan proportions, all bursting with concept stores from the world’s biggest brands, as well as local family-run businesses stocking elaborate goods.
 

In this affluent retail culture, jewellery is a natural fit and as such the UAE is in the top five global markets for gold jewellery consumption, with the Middle East Gems and Jewellery Forum estimating that sales of gold jewels in the region are worth US$2.5 billion. The Middle East also now has a number of prominent jewellery shows including the annual Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, which attracts the likes of Cartier and Graff, while Jewellery Arabia put US$790 million of jewels on display in November, and Vicenza Oro launched a Middle Eastern version of its show in Dubai in April.

A ruby and gold Egg bracelet by ethical jewellery champion Pippa Small

And in the malls and on the city streets, jewellers enjoy showing off with outrageous precious creations, such as the solid gold replica of Dubai landmark the Burj Khalifa made from 22.65kg of 18ct gold by craftsmen at the city’s Malabar Gold & Diamonds store. Other recent oddities include a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro laptop made with a solid 9ct gold case, temporary tattoos made from 24ct gold by Marbella Paris and sold at Dubai hotel Burj al Arab, and Halal alcohol-free sparkling wine brand Lussory Gold, which is infused with flakes of 24ct gold and sold at Bystro Dubai.

iKuria worked with recycled gold for its Age of Discovery Collection

But in the midst of all this excess and expense, could a more ethically minded luxury consumer be emerging in the Middle East? According to research released by Chalboub Group, a consultancy that advises brands venturing into the region, only 35% of luxury shoppers in the Middle East take sustainability into account when making purchase decisions, however 83% of those asked said that they expect the companies they are buying from to be proactively engaging in sustainable practices.

Cred is a pioneer of the ethical jewellery industry working in gold and silver

And perhaps this should not come as a surprise. After all, the region is home to two of the world’s largest eco cities – the low-carbon, zero-waste Masdar City in Abu Dhabi and the Desert Rose in Dubai.

Chopard has created a green carpet collection of ethically created high jewellery

More questions being asked by luxury jewellery consumers in one of the world’s biggest jewellery markets could lead to an increase in demand for jewels made from Fairtrade Fairmined gold or set diamonds from Canada, for example, where the environmental impact from mining is reduced. While the region will no doubt hold on to its love for all things bling, any luxury jewellery brands looking to do business in the Middle East should take this into account and have answers at the ready, as well as sustainable and ethical options available for these inquisitive, socially-aware shoppers with deep pockets, because it seems they are out there.

Arctic Circle works exclusively with Fairtrade gold and Canadian diamonds

Ute Decker creates unusual jewels in Fairtrade Fairmined gold

Credits: JewelleryNetAsia